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Thanks Fellas.... Dan, what is the name/label of the synthetic you use...?

I would order Interlux Schooner 96 from Jamestown Dist... It was replaced and taken off the market a year or so ago, but I think there must have been an outcry, becuase I noticed it available again....

I prefer that varnish, as does a number of us on this forum.

I have a 1961 Johnson 75Hp.. V4AL.... I have been getting Johnson/Evinrude 2-Cycle oil... the Multi-Purpose blend... The store I have been getting that from, has replaced it with a "Mineral Blend" oil... (Still Johnson/Evinrude) Does anyone know what that blend is and if it matters which o...

Has anyone replaced the shocks on their outboard... just wondering if you can get the parts, and how hard it is to do.

I have thought of doing that on my 1960 75 Johnson.

I have a 1960 Johnson, and two vintage 6 gallon fuel tanks. Rather than checking one tank all the time, or running out, switching the hose and re-priming, I am looking for recommendations to either 1) Connect a hose from each tank to a ball valve so that both hoses can be primed and a quick flip of ...

I use a cover while trailering... I had a custom cover made with a very heavy duty material (I can't remember the fabric name right now...) I try to keep all water out of my boat, to minimize any rot. Since there is no infiltration through seams in the hull, I don't want to get stuck in a rainstorm ...

Joe.. thanks for the advice..the wires do look to be special woven types... I guess I will keep my eyes peeled for options, but since I have no issues with what I have now, and don't usually go very far from shore, I might just leave well enough alone.

Thanks again.

John.

Joe... talking about 1961 75hp OMC units mech shift... I have been thinking I should replace the wiring in my Johnson. It runs fine, but the wires are sort of crummy looking. Do you know if and where I could buy a total harness with all the wires the right length/etc.?... I did see a place on line w...

I would apply CPES liberally to the bare hull... let it cure for three or four days... then apply one more pass 24 hrs before you plan to paint... That way, as the CPES cures it will grab the paint on one side and the CPES already laid down on the hull on the other... sort of gluing the paint down. ...

I bought a pint of Interlux Red Mahogany 1579... and used about 3/4 on my 1960 Seacoaster. 15'10" I did the deck, sheer strake, inside around the gunwale, dash, outside transom, window frame, and spray rails. I still have some left over. I keep a box of plastic spoons, and a box of elbow straws...

If you haven't done it already, you might put a jack under the skeg and take the weight off the whole works...

Ray... don't go off the deep end yet on the transom... just start working with it and see what you can find... I would start sanding with 100 grit in a spot and see what you can go through... I will bet that you can work your way down through the paint, then the cloth and end up hitting decent mahog...

For Epoxy, I suggest Smith's... Laminating and Layup Epoxy.. I believe they are cellulose based, and probably less brittle than other epoxies.

OK.. thanks Joe.. sounds like the glow-plug fuse on my old Rabbit Diesel...

Thanks Joe.. yes I have the service manual... and my model is V4AL13F It may be a while before I pull the boat out and restart the engine, but I will make sure I have voltmeter handy to check for 13-15 volts.. I am fine with idle checks, I just didn't want to get into 3/4 throttle and switching to s...