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I tightened up all plank fasteners and removed my first (out of a total of 40) cracked rib. The rib had obviously been cracked for a very long time. The rib broke with no effort at all once I removed all of the screws holding it. The boat was holding the shape of the rib more than the rib holding th...

Thank you both for the replies. They make sense to me.

Rich

The Grady White I am working on has about 40 cracked ribs from the dashboard back. The ribs are solid except in the relatively short distance where they are tightly bent. I was wondering if there is a disadvantage to scarfing in repairs in all of these ribs versus replacing them all. It seems to me ...

Thank you very much Karl. This is very helpful!

Rich

I ran a 1966 80 HP with the electric shift for 4 seasons before trading the boat last summer. I had no problems with the shift and this was the smoothest shifting outboard I have ever driven. There was no clunk at all. I would not hesitate to get another engine with the electric shift if one were av...

I am also working on getting ribs out of my Grady. In addition to cutting the fasteners between the ribs and the keelson, I have also found that I need to cut the fasteners between the ribs and the stringers as these cannot be accessed from the outside of the boat unless the planking is removed. Thi...

Thanks Karl - I am also limited with the computer. I'll keep you in mind if I need one of my antique engine's rebuilt though! Rich

I also have cracked ribs in my Grady White that I will need to replace. I found the post Dan provided on Lap Repair with all the photos very helpful. It would be great if anyone that has successfully replaced ribs would be able to create a similar guide for us novices. If anyone has already done tha...

Bolts are out and motor is on a stand. Thank you all so much. I used all of your ideas, and yes - they are carriage bolts. Rusted and 49 years old - I guess they are time to retire!

Thanks Andreas, I will try the lubricant idea. I cannot grip the roundhead bolt head with visegrips as it is a very shallow dome shape. I like the idea though and will try using the visegrips on the threaded part of the bolt inside the boat. I'll ruin the bolt, but maybe I can get it to rotate. The ...

I am preparing to flip a Grady White Hatteras and have not been able to remove the engine mounting bolts as I work on removing the engine. I was able to remove the nuts from the bolts, but cannot get the bolts out of the transom. On a Penn Yan I restored, the bolts were hex head, and I was able to t...

Very Nice Chris.

Congratulations!

I live in Trumbull and am working on a couple of restorations. I sent you a PM to get in touch with me in case you want to compare notes sometime.

Rich

Excellent point. That is one reason I am not hung up on finding an engine from 1962 only. The '65 engine will look perfectly matched with the boat.

Rich

I took a close look at the engine Saturday, and under the hood,the engine appears to be in remarkable condition. I'd love to find a '62, but in the meantime, the nearby location of this engine combined with its appearance and my knowing the only owner of it (who is very meticulous), tells me this is...

I am finishing up restoring a 1962 Penn Yan Baltic 16ft rated for 70 HP. It has a 1983 Johnson 70Hp engine (now on a stand). The engine runs fine, but I would prefer to have a period engine on it. I have a neighbor willing to sell me a very well cared for 1965 Johnson 75 HP. He took it off his T &am...