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GAFF,

I would sugest the CPES before the putty.

Good Luck,

Phill

JALL, The original flooring on the lapstrakes was only painted. I would be careful of gluing anything on the original flooring. Vinyl will trap mositure and the floor will rot. Also vinyl can be slippery when wet. I would recommend a good marine paint and you can add anti-slip material to the paint ...

m13thompson, Welcome Aboard. It can be tricky posting photos, I know I have problems at time remembering which to click on and copy to the posting. You need to post each picture individually. When on photo bucket click on the photo you want to post and then click on the last item in the drop down li...

Peteburrs,

Check the paint manufacturer's literature for what they recommend with the paint you are using.

Good luck,

Phill

Peteburrs,

I have used the Top Side paints on my boat without any problems. Should be fine as long as it is not kept in the water all season.

As for the primer it is not a bad idea. It will give the paint a good base to adhere too.

Good luck,

Phill

TreelineIII,

Yes, pull the outer keel and clean all old caulking and recaulk with a product like "Boat Life".
On the lapstrake hulls the keel to garboard area and the laps seams are some of the most common areas were leakage happens.

Good Luck,

Phill

TreelineIII, I diffently agree with Andreas and Karl, keep the fiberglass away from a wood boat. When you fiberglass and then leaks develope it is more then twice the work to fix the problem. Wood boats do need attention just like a good woman. Keep her happy and do not glass her. Good luck, Phill

Vernonfarmer, It was not a bourbon induced haze. I do recall years ago, I'm talking back in the 50's and 60's, Eveinrude and Johnson did sell motors with opposite prop rotations for twin engine applications. I am sure the other manufacturer's did also. The reason for this was to eleminate "prop...

chvjillson, By a backer piece of banding I am refering to a piece of steel strapping material that will be placed on the outside surface of the wood being bent to act as a support. This backer reinforces the wood being bent and helps eliminate possible cracking of the wood as it bends. Hope that hel...

chvjillson, I believe if you perdrilled the wood it may cause the wood to fail at these drilled locations while bending it. I would try fastening at the very end of the stem near the deck and then using a backer piece of steel banding, with something between it and the wood so it will not transfer r...

Verne, I would think you could replace both the stem and keel pieces with on continuous piece of white oak. I do not see any advantage to having two pieces at this point in time. Besides it would be one less seam to have water infiltrate. Main reason the stem and keel where originally done in two se...

Darryl, I would recommend a scarf joint even with the splice over a rib. There is not enough strength in a straight joint over a rib in plywood hulls. With the joint scarfed you are making sure the plywood is as strong as it can possibly be and will take the flexing that the hull goes through out on...

Dan,

Nice! I especially like the last picture, it looks right at home.

Nice Job.

Phill

chvjillson, Take a look at the pictures of the keel removal on this page on the site http://www.thompsondockside.com/views/viewtopic.php?t=3727&start=0&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=keel The keel is higher then what is on your craft, it might have been replaced at some time. Kee...

Steve,

The 12 footer only has one knee, approximately 1-1/2" thick, in the ceter of the tramson.

Back to the varnish thing. I would think if you used the 1850 as a caouple seal coats, thinned about 25% then changed to the Schooner it should not effect you golden hue.

Good Luck,

Phill